My (Our) Cobra Project
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The Beginning
It's been off the ground since June of 1999 when I mentioned to my "to be wife" Jeanne, that I wanted to do this project. She asked what it was so I told her. No hesitation, do it! I guess this is why we chose each other. Honesty and friendship. So, I messed around finding information and while I had pretty much made up my mind on the Factory Five Kit, I wasn't quite ready to do it. I was asked by a friend of mine who owned a Viper to join him on a club auto-cross run in Sacramento. I said, "Sure"! Well to make a long story short, I went, had a great time and on the second day met, David Borden and his "Whinning Mistress". We talked, I sat in it, and then was asked if I wanted a ride. Again, "Sure"! The next day, Monday, I ordered my kit. It was that simple, this would be the one. Thanks David!
On September 2, 1999 I picked up the big box in Salinas, CA. Off to a good start (we made it home) it sat in the front yard for a few days until I had time to open it completely and get things going. I did open the top to take a peek at the future beast. Little did I know how much excitement and fun I'd have meeting new people and doing things I love to do! Took time to go to the Berkeley Kit Car Show the next weekend, got married the next weekend and then started the build the next weekend.
I started with a "pallet" donor from Cypress Auto in Oakland and soon found myself changing everything I thought I wanted to do. First was the addition of the new I.R.S. package from F5, so I needed the T-Bird rear end assembly. Next was the idea to install a completely new engine setup. I spent weeks deciding what to power it with and finally went with a full FMS setup. Cobra 302 short block, X303 aluminum heads, Cobra intake, 75mm Mass Air kit, 65mm throttle body, B-303 cam, March underdrive and P/S, Alt. brackets; coupled to a Centerforce Dual-Disc clutch and T-5 transmission. I've decided to overhaul every unit going on the car. I don't like surprise's and feel this is important to me.
Front brakes are '95 and rears are '93 T-Bird. Front and rear suspension is all tubular with stainless braided custom brake hoses. I also decided to keep the P/S unit and installed the Heidt's kit with adjustable pressure valve. An adjustable brake proportioning valve is also being installed.
Everything was going fine until the IRS installation. My lower arms were not right and caused a big delay in the setup. After talking with Jim, he had me take measurements and came to the conclusion the arms were not welded properly. I sent the arms back, awaiting the new ones (he had a set standing by) to arrive. This process took four weeks! When the new ones arrived, I found a new problem. The upper camber arms didn't fit into the crossbar evenly. This is definitely not acceptable to me as the upper bushing in the spindle bracket would have way too much stress on it constantly and the up and down movement of the assembly was pitiful at best. So, it was back on the phone to FFR.
This was the start of a long and eventful month. I'm still dealing with FFR about the rear suspension. They are getting harder to deal with and no return messages or calls. I started calling about 2 to 3 times per week to find out what was going on. I'm trying to keep busy doing some of the minor details that could be done while I await their answer. I was getting measurements on the frame, sending pictures and waiting for an answer from them. Again, more measurements, pictures and a call to and from Dave Smith. After a lengthy conversation they decided to make a set of "custom" upper camber arms for my kit. This has delayed any frame pieces and rear aluminum installation for seven weeks!
After a lengthy delay with FFR, the kit sat for weeks and I did some minor things for later on in the build. I wasn't sure what their solution would be so I didn't want to do more to the car in case something had to be done. In other words, no aluminum panels, brake lines or wiring were done at this time.
I decided that after FFR was correcting the problem that the engine and transmission were going in the car. I wasn't waiting any longer and I'd fix whatever needed to be fixed myself if not satisfied with their solution.
Finally the upper arms arrived on Dec. 23, 1999. They are offset at the spindle end which is much better than the original setup, but I'm not an engineer and think a better solution can be had for everyone with the IRS setup.
I was back on track. The engine/trans. went in on Christmas Eve '99 and the rear end went together on the day after Christmas. Now I'm concentrating on getting my brake hoses and fittings ordered and the system working. Test fitting the rear panels to make sure all is OK. Adjustable proportioning valve and master battery switch are also in now.
After the engine/trans was installed I started on the brake routing. This was as much fun to plumb as it was to plan. I used AN fittings and a few I.F. type to complete the project. A rear proportioning valve was installed behind the drivers seat on the 2x3 support. Stainless steel hose is used on all four disc brakes. Brake system is complete by Jan. 30, 2000.
I have started the wiring project and it's more fun than I thought. I guess it's because I like doing electrical work and troubleshooting systems. I first laid out the entire harness to get an idea how to route it. Then I stripped the entire harness covering to get a good look at what needed to be edited out. Then with the help of my diagrams, I started the dissection.
I've routed the computer harness under the 2x2 crossmember in the engine compartment and then through the hole in the footbox. I enlarged it to accommodate that harness and both rear ones from the transmission and fuel/lights in the rear. All the connections will be made in the upper footbox area. I plan to have the wiring done by the middle of February 2000.
The next step is to test fit the body and make sure the wiring harness will reach and to test fit the new wheels that are coming.
Well my friends showed up Feb. 12, 2000 for a body fit. Damn thing covered up all my work! I have to admit though, it's starting to look like a Cobra. Sidepipes need some minor work on the right side so will try to get the car to the muffler shop by the end of the month to get them aligned properly. Next stop will be the body shop to do test fitting of body pieces and modifications before the body is left there and the go-cart returned home to finish up small details.
As for my wiring, everything is on schedule. I've completed dissecting and routing the rear harness and connections to the lights. Front lights will be done by President's Day and that will finish up the light routing and plugs. I'll tidy things up after the body gets removed for easier access.
Tires are in and waiting on wheel arrival the end of the month. For starters I'm running Potenza RE730's all around. 225/50x16 front and 245/50x16 rear. If that doesn't look or fit right, my tire guy will get me what I need. Great people (Young's Tire Service) to work with locally. Wheels are Compomotive GT40's. I've tried the RE71's, which are a little taller, but they are being discontinued so I opted for the RE730's in the above sizes. They don't make a 255/50 in that tire yet, so there is still hope for later.
Dash gauges and wiring will be done during the week of Feb. 21, 2000. I took the week off to get most of the finer details done and spend some consistent time on the build. I only work on the car during the weekend so this is a great opportunity to finish up some lengthy projects.
Looking to breath life in the engine around Tues. or Wed. after connecting the remaining senders and computer harness modifications. I've stripped my harness prior to starting as I know what I need and don't need. Others will choose to do it in reverse, but that's a personal preference and something to take your time with.
It took me a little longer than expected to fire up the baby, but it did happen. Friday, February 25, 2000 at 5:12pm (waited for Jeanne to get home) I turned the key, depressed the clutch and instant insanity! It was truly amazing to hear the horses let loose. One small fuel leak at the line near the frame needs attention, but other than that, NO LEAKS! I do want to make an adjustment on the throttle bracket to allow me to have a "softer" pedal feel. Now it's just fine tuning at a later date and finishing up the dash wiring.
Before the actual startup and run as I was doing my fuel pressure test, the engine wanted to fire up even with the plenum, air mass and throttle body laying on the bench!
I've finally decided on my tires!! They are Sumitomo HTR Z 225/50R16 in front and 255/50R16 in the rear. I've done sizing with several brands and although I would've liked the RE730 Potenza's, they don't make a wide enough tire for the rear in 16's. The Sumi's look really good on the Cobra and fill up the wells nicely. That extra meat in the rear looks good too!
I was just about ready to load the Cobra on the flatbed to make it's trip to the muffler and then body shop Friday the 10th, when one of my p/s braided steel lines decided to piss a stream of fluid all over the "F" panel. It was right in the middle of the line too! Oh well, minor setback. Bigger one was as I was putting water and cycling the engine and pressurizing the system with my tester, a big a constant plume of engine oil smoke poured out of the left bank, then the right. Crap!
After the mess was cleaned up it was pushed back into the garage for the operation. I was calm and knew it had to be something simple. I hope. As I was tearing the top down, I noticed oil in the rear three upper intake ports and thought that was very strange. Onward, take manifold off and gasket sealing areas look good, but oil in the #7 and #8 cylinders. Exhaust manifold had oil in the same cylinders, but not others. Now I'm beginning to diagnose. Everything to the bench for inspection. Found no problems. Get the pcv valve and take it to the bench leaving a trail of oil from the hose! OK, now some clues. After thinking all night, even when waking up at 1:15am, that the oil had to come through the pcv valve, I would tackle that in the morning. I don't know why or how, but that's my solution. The next day will tell.
After leaving the newly sealed and gasket'd manifold setup all night it was time to finish. In a couple of hours it was outside and started up. Residual smoke came out then everything cleared up. Great! Also had the pcv valve blocked off. Water seems fine and started to hear a little too much lifter noise. Oil pressure down to 10psi! What the heck! Off it went and in went my live tester gauge. Started back up and 8#'s pressure and then maybe up to 20#'s with a little throttle. Crap again! Into the garage and up on stands again.
OK. I didn't do anything to the top end so underneath I go. Pan down in 15 minutes. All looks fine and no metal shavings. Windage tray fine. Dissecting oil pump as I go. Plate off, gears fine, shaft fine, what gives? Still no answers. Now it's on the bench, cleaned up and no problem found again! Figure I'll plug that low oil switch hole in the pan now that it's off.
While in the shower I think, what about the remote lines! Afterwards, I go check. Yes, they're just as they should be as well as I can tell. The out arrow on the adapter goes to the in arrow on the filter housing and vice-versa. So now, I just don't have a clue. Meanwhile I'm getting some other things done.
I spent Sunday cleaning things up and installing the emergency cables and such. Another problem to deal with, it won't pull the cables! On to the oil pressure problem. I double checked the pump and related items and then decided to check the oil filter adapter. After removing it from the block, I noticed three cracks in the threaded area. This will allow oil to by-pass the oil filter and build the pressure needed. My guess is it happened when I installed it and tightened it too tight. I'll get a new one coming and start over again. I knew there had to be a solution and I'm sure this is it.
Friday, March 17, 2000. After installing the adapter and oil, I fired up the engine. Low oil pressure again. 14#'s and up to 30#'s when at 2000rpm. I shut it down and began to go over everything again. I still have the old 302 in the garage so I went over to it to peak around and see if something would jump out at me. It did!
After lifting off the intake manifold and checking out the valley area, I noticed the rear of the block where the two oil galleys meet at the top and the area was filled with oil. This is the plug just below the pcv valve baffle and screen. I got my pick out and said, "this thing is solid!" Then I began to think about what the new short block looked like and remembered seeing the two holes but no plug! This has got to be the problem and makes sense now why I had oil in the pcv valve and hose. The oil pump is just pumping away into nothing! Oil coming up through the left lifter galley and then where the "plug" should be before going to the right galley! Notice here I said "should". Yep that's right. The engine I got from Ford (bless their soles) didn't have that plug installed. This allows any oil pressure to vent freely into the upper valley area and starve the right bank! This is also why I think the pcv sucked up all that oil. It just kept pumping oil and the vacuum eventually pulled it through.
Now I'm not a Ford person so I didn't really think about the plug not being there but I'd assume (I know I shouldn't) that they put the plugs in before shipping. Heck, the rear pipe plugs were in! When I had the intake off last week I noticed the area and thought that it was strange it didn't have anything there and didn't put two and two together.
I've ordered the plugs from Ford and they should be here Tuesday so I'll find out then and most likely Wednesday evening as I'll let the gasket stuff setup before starting. All in all it was a successful adventure. I did find the crack (I did), in the other "crappy" adapter, the oil pump shaft being too long (the ARP shaft had to be gound down a little. It was a force fit with the distributor and oil pump installed and wasn't noticed until I tried to install the pump with the distributor in), and I removed the low oil bung and put a pipe fitting there for my oil temperature sender to go.
So now it looks like everything will work fine and the time I spent was well worth the questions I asked myself. I'll know for sure next week, but for now I'm not going to worry as I really think this is the problem. It just doesn't make any other sense right now. I'll let you know for sure next week when I fire it up again.
Saturday, March 18, 2000
I just couldn't wait so I found a feeze plug at my local parts connection and installed it in less than 2 hours. I waited until the end of the day to do a test fire and low and behold 70psi. of oil pressure! What a relief and sense of satisfaction. It still was a good thing I checked everything as I found several items that would cause some serious damage (both to engine and pocketbook) down the road, so I am thankful for that. It only cost .47 so it didn't break the bank, but it could have. Now it's on to the muffler shop and body shop for the final stages.
Well the end fo March came and went without anymore suprises. I took my sidepipes to get coated on the 29th and they should be ready in three weeks. In the meantime I'm doing some rear trunk modifications at the body shop. This includes hidden hinges and a sunken trunk. The box frame was completed on the 31st and now I'll work on the hinges.
This is the month for Knott's Berry Farm, AHA show and we'll be there in go-cart form. I'm not pushing the body to completion but will have a solid rolling chassis for the show. I may leave the rear panels off so people can get a clear look at the IRS unit. I'm not sure so I'll play that one by ear. The rear trunk frame and hoop should be in place by the first week and then it's on to the heater installation and finishing the wiring for the dash.
The entire month has been very busy with wiring, body work and the modification to the rear trunk area. I've finished all the wiring to the front of the vehicle and have the plugs for the lights ready as well. I decided to use the block off plate for the 3" hole and just use a grommet for the smaller harness that comes through the footbox. This makes it much easier to access the master cylinder and eliminates that great big rubber plug.
I have finished all the dash wiring except the turn signal switch and high beam circuit until I get the VW assembly installed. I've also eliminated all the stock switches and am using Cole Hersee toggle switches and their headlamp switch with rehostat for the dash lights. I'v kept the fog lamp circuit for the extra headlamp bulb for those daylight driving areas.
One idea I came up with while doing the dash wiring was to drill a hole and put the cross dash wires in the 2 x 2 tube to the passenger side and then drill a hole to the computer area to remove them from the top of the crossmember. I used a grommmet at each end and corrugated conduit for the wires.
When I return from Knott's I'll concentrate on plumbing the heater and finishing up the turn signal switch. I'll be headed down to Knott's without permanently fixing the rear deck panels to allow viewers to see the IRS and see how I routed things. Seats will be out and the rear firewall may not be installed. I do have the rear trunk area and new hoops that will be very visible.
Saturday May 6, 2000
This month starts the end of my build. I hope to be done by Memorial Day, but it will most likely be the first or second week in June. Body work is the topic of the month. Hidden trunk hinges are almost complete and then will deal with a hood support system with the hood hinge kit. The trip to Knott's was great and I was able to meet some new faces to put with names. I didn't get a chance to mill around much as I wanted because a lot of people were asking questions about what I did. It was a good show piece for FFR, as was Jonah's (Velocity) who was directly across from me with both of us having the IRS in full glory.
I'm still sanitizing the wiring under the dash and removed that today to tidy up the wires to gauges and switches by taping them into a loom. Now it looks much nicer (like who's going to look there). I'll put the dash padding on this week and start the aluminum panels in the rear next weekend. The first primer coat should go on this week. Body lines look really good and I think it will come together quite nicely after the primer coat.
Friday May 19, 2000
After two weeks of planning, the trunk hidden hinges and hood frame are constructed and installed. The hood is just being finish sanded on the inside at this time. Again, everything was bonded and glassed over for strength, and this allows me to have no rivets or screws showing on the body pieces. The doors have been hung for the test fit and now the top seam needs to be dealt with this week. Next will be removing the body to sand areas underneath. I want to finish the wheel openings and a few other areas.
Hopefully by the end of Memorial Day we will be doing a final primer prior to painting the following week. There are a few details to take care of, but they will wait until the body comes off for sanding. I'm covering the dash at this time and it's just a matter of installing it and plugging my harness connections together. The heater is ready to be installed and that will be done at that time.
I'm still hoping for a mid June completion date. I'd like to have a few weeks to iron out details, if any, before taking off to Hot August Nights this year. That will be it's big maiden voyage.
Sunday June 18, 2000
A lot has happened in the last month. I lost my body man and had to find another. I'm not upset about this as I want him to take care of himself. Brian has been very kind to me and I thank him and Tammy for allowing me to finish up the work in their body shop. Another body man, Mario, is taking over the finish of the work. We just completed fitting the trunk and door hinges yesterday. The trunk hinge box had to be cut off again and repositioned because the body changed a little after being refit with the trunk aluminum in place. We also were able to remove the shims from the lid and this makes a much cleaner look to the underside.
The door hinge bushings on the frame were also cut off and rewelded. The passenger door was so far off it had to be shimed out almost 3/4"! I decided to remove any washers from the door plate, cut off the hinges, add an extra piece of metal to the outside of the frame to weld the hinge to, and while holding the door in place, I tacked the hinges in place. What a difference that made! Both doors are now in place and ready for blocking. The upper seam was also adjusted to glass together. The driver door had to come in about 1/8" to fit properly. Both doors are now ready to have the striker plate rewelded to the frame as well. I removed it because the door latch didn't line up right. Now with the doors properly adjusted the stiker can be positioned to the door latch.
The short piece of 3/4" tubing behing the rear seat splash panels was also welded in wrong from the factory. I had to cut them out and reweld new metal in place so the aluminum panels would line up correctly. It also allowed the rear striker cover to fit correctly. I'm in the process of a glove box to fit above the u-joint assembly. It won't be very large but enough to hold the essentials. A template was made and is posted on the photo page.
I've completed the heater installation, trimmed all the wheel splash shields (a MUST before final body installation), wiring to the temporary turn signal and high beam light switches and adjustable seat track for drivers seat. The windshield is in and I'll be removing it before painting to "fix" the brass strip that we all seem to have a problem with. After talking to Enzo at Finishline, he said that FFR gives the wrong screws for the wind wings they sell. I also stirpped one threaded screw so will make the necessary changes. I ordered the sunvisors from Finishline and they have two different spacings for the brackets. Be sure to let them know if you have am 8mm or 10mm spacing and they'll get you the right ones. Hat's off to Enzo and Paula!
I'm hoping now for a 4th of July maiden voyage, but I'm not holding my breath for that. I do need some seat time and a break-in period before we head off to Hot August Nights this year. This means I'll be doing a lot of driving the month of July!
Sunday June 25, 2000
More glass work has started on the doors, deck lid and hood. Filling low spots and seam areas are taking the time now. After this is done, it'll get blocked and ready for painting. Maybe by next weekend it will have a couple of stripes. I'm sizing all the interior rear panels for installation after the body comes off. I have another special box being made at this time as well.
All wheel splash panels are cut to fit and ready for installation after the body goes back on when the painting is done. Radiator panels are also ready to go. The hood hinge is installed and I had to do a little grinding on the vertical 3/4 tubing in the front for the lower pivot piece to fit flush. I'm working on my hood hinge extra support at this time and will weld that in when the body gets removed. Just getting ready for a two day assembly after painting. Not much else is going on and just waiting for the break in period.
One note on the master cut-off switch. When I turn mine off while the engine is running, it shuts everything down. The engine will not stay running and all power to the system shuts down. The only hot wire is to the KAPWR #1 computer terminal. So, in case of an emergency, I know it will shut down the car.
Sunday July 2, 2000
Another week has gone by and the glasswork is almost complete. We've spent a lot of time doing final edge work to all the openings. I had to fill part of the windshield cut-outs because they were cut too far toward the outside of the body. I also filled part of the rear roll bar hole so the escutcheon would cover properly.
While fitting the windshield I too, stripped one threaded hole on the brass rail. I'm going to fix that this week while the glass is out and size up the wind wings as well. I'm finishing up drilling all the pilot holes for any emblems, brackets and plates that get attached to the body before it goes in for primer. The plan now is to have the body off by the end of the week for painting. The doors, trunk and hood outer fitment is done. Inner door panels need to be glassed and the inner lip on the doors and hood need trimming. I installed the roll bar for a test fit and low and behold, it fit perfectly. I didn't have to do a thing!
I've decided to bond and rivet the tunnel cover in place. I can remove the transmission from below and will have a nice aid at home this week in case that ever needs to get done. I also want to secure the carpet down to the flooring well.
Most of my week after work has been getting the door latches to line up properly. Believe me, these doors fit really good now. While moving the hinge pins and getting the door to line up right, the rear strikers were removed. I ground down some of the U shaped brackets to get the plate closer to the frame. The passenger side had to be cut into the 3/4" upright to get the door to close correctly. I notched the tubing and then reinforced it with the cut out piece. By doing this it allowed me to use only two washers on the front side of the latch as I rewelded them where I wanted.
Sunday July 9, 2000
Well I'm getting closer to being done. More details, and boy they add up, to take care of. Fuel cap and filler neck installed, license lamp and all the roll bar escutcheons are all drilled. Doors are done and ready for primer, deck lid needs a little sanding for primer and the hood got an added touch so it will be another day or so before it's ready for primer.
The body came back off on Saturday so I could finish up the aluminum behind the seats and the footbox area. That's getting done on Sunday. I spent Saturday getting my "glove box" to fit the way I wanted and so far, it turned out better than expected. It's tucked neatly between the two angled uprights just above the driveshaft. I'm making it removeable as it will need to come out if replacing the transmission or doing a rear end change. It will have nutserts on the needed flanges and then screwed to the 3/4" tubes.
Plans are to have the car primered by Wednesday, blocked, then painted. I've also decided to paint the body on the frame. All undersides and jams will be painted first and then the body installed and masked off for final painting. We both figured it would be easier and less trouble when putting the body back on after painting.
Friday July 14, 2000
The body is finally blocked! Primer sealant coat of Featherfil will be applied on Monday. I'm off to a Corvette meeting Saturday and will take the weekend off. Now, the million dollar question, when will it get painted? Hhmm, I don't know, maybe by the weeks end it'll be home. I sure hope so as we're going to Hot August Nights on August 3rd and I want that seat time!
The dash has been test fitted with the covering minus gauges and now can be installed when done. This will be done on Monday as I will install gauges on Sunday. There's only a few little things to tackle and I will be done with the chassis. All the mounting nut's and bolt's are packaged ready to go when installing the body so I'm not looking for things when the time comes. Inertia switch screwed down, license light harness fed through trunk area, high beam and turn signal toggles are wired (these are temporary) and the "check engine" indicator light installed. I will run a solid steel vapor line under the chassis and connect the fuel tank and vapor canister with rubber fuel vapor line.
I took time today to check my timing and idle speed which I never did do. Much to my suprise I had it set to 10 degrees right from the start! Must have been all those years working around engines. I set the timing to 12 degrees to start at 800 RPM. The engine lopes so much it sounds like it's idling at 500 RPM. Fuel pressure is set at 30#'s and will adjust if needed with the adjustable regulator that's installed.
Well, that's just about all there is now. Just waiting for the painting to occur and then I'll finish the rest at home. Hopefully my next posting will be a completion (or darn near one).
Saturday July 22, 2000
The week started out really great. The body parts got coated with Feather Fill on Monday and everything looked like it was going to move quickly toward the painting process. Tuesday afternoon didn't fair too well. The second batch of Feather Fill didn't setup completely! After a day in the blazing sun and a call to Ever Coat, it was found that the second batch was an older one and the shelf life is only about a year to year and a half for this stuff!
It was decided to continue with the blocking process and the top layer of coating was actually coming right off with solvent and a scotch pad. It also came off with sandpaper, so it was on with the final touches. The plan is to try, and I say try, to get a coat of primer on by Saturday afternoon and the painting done by mid week. I know this doesn't leave me much time for finish work but Jeanne says, "let's live on the edge and just go!" So, we're still planning that long maiden voyage to Reno and Hot August Nights the following week.
I really don't have too much to do after I get it home other than to detail a few things and put some miles on it. Still, I'll rest easier after I get some seat time and the car gets sorted out.
Saturday August 12, 2000
Well I finally got it on the road. It was finished at 8:00pm Wednesday night August 2nd, and we left the next morning at 9:00am for Reno and Hot August Nights!
The days leading up to getting it on the road were very busy. Without the help from my body man Mario, I wouldn't have made it on time. I needed one more day for comfort. But these guys are ex-rod and custom builders and they knew what to do.
The body came out great and was painted on Saturday and Sunday three days before completion. It was painted off the car because Mario said it would be less time and less masking so to save materials, we made a go of it.
I was more than pleasantly suprised when I first saw the first stages of paint and striping. It looked better than I could've imagined. After the pearl and clear were shot, it took on even more of a classy look.
Body was installed on Monday and then undercoated with rubberized sealant and rockgaurd in the wheel wells. Tuesday began the cutting and rubbing on the body and the installation of the interior. Once the body was finished the hardware started getting applied and it really started looking like a car.
Wednesday the doors were touched up again along the inside while the rest of the car came together. It turned out to be a long day, but again, without Mario's help, none of this would've happened. A couple of my friends stopped by and the windshield and trunk lid were fitted with their help. The hood was fitted and then onto the radiator and splash panels. All had been fitted before so the install time was reduced tremendously.
After fitting the side pipes it was found that the driver side hit the body a little. We marked and cut another 1/4" off the body and fit the pipe. This winter the "J" pipe on that side will be redone and the exhaust made a little more level with the body.
On Tursday morning we took off for Richmond, CA. to meet up with the Radio Flyer and then onto Auburn to meet the Whinning Mistress for the trip to Reno, NV. All was well with only an adjustment to the power steering to give me less assist and a couple of clutch adjustments along the way. Forte's quadrant made the job a 10 second ordeal!
Upon climbing up I-80 in the Sierra's we were blessed with a beautiful thunder and lightning storm and drove right into the heart of it. Rain, mud, spray and wind were all a part of the breaking in of the "Ween Wagon" (named by the NORCAL FFROG's in attendance). She passed her initiation with flying colors and survived to see another day. She was washed down that night in the parking lot of the hotel that night and covered. Friday morning saw the sunshine and the finishing of "dirt" detail was attacked. She shined like a beauty.
Although there are still some details to finish on the car, I feel a sense of accomplishment and am ready to do another one. This is not a sickness, but pride in doing good work.
I'm taking the car to Laguna Seca Raceway this coming week and it will be in a booth for Factory Five Racing. David Borden asked me if I wanted to have it on display along with his Spec Racer. This is an honor to have been asked, and will enjoy the time there. It's only 40min. from my home.
1. Do not install the front footbox panel with silicone until you get the inner side box panels installed. If you do, you'll find yourself removing them and then scraping the silicone off and doing it over. Along with drilling out the rivets. Leave the outer driver footbox panel off as well as the upper outer piece. You can fit these when installing the front panel for test fit, but don't silicone them in. Leave that area clean until you are done with the wiring. Leaving these panels off makes it very easy to do your wiring and work on the pedal's.
2. I chose to route the dash wiring to the passenger footbox through the 2 x 2 crossmember. This must be done before the body is on or you'll have a heck of a time fishing the conduit through the holes. I drilled one hole behind my dash ignition switch on the top of the tube and the other under the tube near the computer area. I installed rubber grommets and conduit with the wires installed (5) and then routed the assembly through the tube. You need to take the Ford plugs apart to do this but it makes the behind dash area very neat and you don't have to bring the harness over the front of the tube toward the cockpit.
Rear wiring harness's.
1. I chose to delete one of the large plugs going to the rear of the car. One has speaker wires and the fuel system, while the other has lights and such. I took the plugs apart and removed what I needed from each of them and then put them all into one plug. I left the reverse light circuit intact for possible lights later. I removed the speaker wires as I will run a separate harness for them when/if I install a stereo.
2. All wiring to the rear came through the opening at the top corner of the footbox. I enlarged the opening just enough to route the computer harness through and with the rear plug and transmission plug taken apart, ran the wires (wrapped) through the opening. This way, all my wires are entering the footbox at the same place. I left enough harness loose in the top of the footbox to easily pull down into the drivers foot area to do any wiring work needed in the future. I also put the fuel relay on the top of the pedal box by removing the wiring from one side of the plug and into the footbox area.
3. I'm using GM style weatherpack connectors for all my exterior lights. This way, I can remove the body (if needed) without disrupting the wiring to the lights.
4. I saved the non-used wires from the fuse panel for extra/other circuits. One of the blank fuse holders will come in handy for my "HOT" lead from the battery to the computer. I'm taking off the hot side of the master switch and running it to the fuse panel and then to the hot lead of the computer near the ECU relay. Cut the wire to the ECU between the relay and the ECU, and splice in the wire from the fuse panel. This will make it easy to replace the fuse if someone tries to jump the car with the master switch off. This keeps power to the ECU for the keep alive memory. Others are jumping across the master switch itself with a fuse but I'd have a hard time replacing that fuse if it blew!
5. All my wiring connections are put in wire ends, crimped and then soldered to keep them intact. Heat shrink tubing is also used to keep the connection from shorting with other circuits. I believe this is a must when doing the build to keep you from having trouble in the future. Just my way of thinking, that's all.
Brake system:
1. I found that using the stock hoses was not the best thing for me to use. After running my Corvette with stainless braided hoses, I was sure these were going on the Cobra. I drilled holes in the "F" panels just behind the opening for the upper control arm and ran the hoses to AN style fittings I used throughout my brake system. This makes a clean looking installation and eliminates fittings and blocks. The same effect can be accomplished using the standard IF type fittings. I just think this looks much cleaner than the stock hose brackets.
Body:
1. I recommend you put the body on the frame as soon as you have the rear trunk panels installed and secure the body for it's final position. This includes the rear view dash mounted mirror and windshield for fitment purposes. Once this is done, doing the body work can start. Any seam, fiberglass repairs and body blocking can begin. Doing this will insure the correct placement for the doors, trunk and hood and can save you a lot of time later on. The rest of the build can continue to a point, but getting a head start on the body work will be easier now than later. You can get it ready for a first primer coat before removing it and doing the rest of the build. Any mess that's made can be cleaned up easier now rather than wait until the chassis is done and then doing body work. Also get out those splash panels behind the wheels and do the trimming necessary for them to fit. I don't advise puttting them on the frame until after the body has been installed. Once these are done, the body can be removed and your build continued.
2. My seats were installed with threaded 5/16 USS allen head bolts. I tapped the 4" round tube and installed nutserts in the 2x2 and 3/4 tubes. I don't like trusting sheet metal screws for my seats.
3. My seats have since been changed from the original build. I would've liked to have these during the build as it would've been easier to weld the new mounts to the frame while the aluminum was off and especially the body off! But, they are in and feel much better than the stock FFR ones. They are the Cobra Classic bucket seat.