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These are shots of the wiring before and during the editing process. It looks worse than the job really is. I started by stripping all the tape off and laying out the harness in the general area where I wanted to route it. I've moved the fuel relay into the upper pedal area and pulled all the computer harness through the large 3" grommet to inside the footbox. The front system is laid out along the inner frame rail, but is going to the outside (wheel side) on the final run. I did this to get an idea of what was needed. I'm using the fog lamp wire to power the running light in the headlamps. All exterior lights are working and ready to plug in when needed. The low oil level wire is being used for my oil temperature gauge. The computer and rear harness is routed through the access hole at the top of the footbox near the tunnel. My master cutoff switch is located behind the drivers seat along with the proportioning valve for the brakes. These can be accessed by the right hand by just reaching around the seat. The last picture is the leftover wire, belt and switches I won't be using.
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These are shots of the heater and wiring for the O2 sensors. I routed the O2 harness down the back of the engine and then underneath the car at the bell housing. This makes for a clean install and the wiring is protected and out of site. The next pictures are of the heater installation. The dash has it's initial gauges installed and the toggle switches, heater, headlamp and ignition switch will be connected when the dash is installed. They are attached to the chassis at this time. The other is the back of the dash.
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The shots above show the routing of the O2 sensor harness and how it's tied to the lower two bell housing bolts with straps. This keeps the harness out of the engine compartment and out of the way of heat and road damage. The connectors have plastic retainers (you can get replacements from Ford or a good parts store) and they are held to the frame below the motor mount by drilling a hole to press the retainers in.
Electrical Diagrams
The turn signal diagram can be utilized using either the shown toggle switch display, or, by adding the column mounted switch. The wiring will not change. This is setup for one indicator lamp. If you decide to use two indicator lamps, you will not need to use any diodes.
The following relay setup can be used to operate automatically, and/or, with a manual toggle to override the feature. I use this with my cooling fan system.
This is a modified version of the "low/high" headlamp system. If you wire it as I have shown, both low and high beams will work at the same time when you use your high beam lights. If you wire as shown on other sites, you will not have all four lights burning at the same time, thus cutting down your night vision area.
The following diagram is for "low/high" without the "flash-to-pass" feature. Both systems use a jumper wire to allow the low beam lights to stay on while having the high beam on. Using the extra relay will put the load separate from the dimmer switch relay and not overheat your relay or headlight switch.
This is a stand alone automatic relay function.
This is the wiring schematic for the Honda S2000 start button that some are using.
